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Rated 95/100 by Wine Enthusiast (top 21% of their reviews).
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Poggio alle Mura is Banfi's Brunello di Montalcino DOCG drawn from the vineyards around the historic Poggio alle Mura castle. Like all Brunello it is Sangiovese, here from a set of clones the estate selected internally through a programme begun in 1982, planted on sites identified by zonation studies started in 1980 as the best suited to the variety.
The vineyards lie on sloping ground; the estate describes the soils as reddish continental and clay sediments carrying many stones and pebbles, with earlier vintages described as sandy clays with rounded pebbles. Vines are trained to spurred cordon and to the estate's own Banfi alberello.
Fermentation is temperature-controlled between 24 and 30 degrees in Horizon tanks, a hybrid vessel combining French oak with stainless steel that Banfi introduced in 2007. Ageing is split, 40 per cent in French oak casks of 60 to 90 hectolitres and 60 per cent in 350-litre French oak barriques, for a minimum of two years, against an appellation floor of two years in oak and four months in bottle.
Yields run around 60 quintals per hectare.
Banfi was founded in Montalcino in 1978 by the Italian-American brothers John and Harry Mariani, who developed the estate with Ezio Rivella, described by the company as one of Italy's leading winemakers. The project was research-led from the start: zonation study of the estate began in 1980 and a Sangiovese clonal selection programme in 1982, both aimed at matching plant material to the site.
In 1983 the company acquired the Poggio alle Mura castle, from which this wine takes its name, and the Montalcino winery was inaugurated in 1984. The castle itself long predates the estate; most of the complex was built between the ninth and thirteenth
centuries, it first appears in records in 1318 in the hands of the heirs of Mino di Neri dei Ranuccini, and after passing to the Colombini family it was held by the Sienese Counts Placidi until 1959.
Damaged in the Second World War, it was restored by the Mariani family after 1983 and now houses a hotel, restaurants, an enoteca and a glass museum. The Banfi Foundation was established in 1986, and the Horizon fermentation hall followed in 2007.
Grilled lamb chops with rosemary and garlic
Lamb fat coats the palate and tames the wine's tannins, while the rosemary picks up the herbal thread in Sangiovese. The char from grilling meets the toasty edge the barrique ageing contributes.
Northern Thai pork and tomato curry with ginger (น้ำพริกอ่อง)
A tomato-based northern curry is mild rather than fiery, and its acidity meets the wine's own. The pork fat softens the tannins, while the ripe dark fruit of this fuller style of Brunello has enough weight to carry the ginger and fermented-bean depth without being overwhelmed.
Aged pecorino and walnut
Salt and fat in a hard sheep's milk cheese cut against the wine's tannic grip, and the slight bitterness of walnut echoes the oak-derived spice without competing with the fruit.
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