Chablis

As always, the estate Chablis is considerably more compact and intense than the wine above. Mixed citrus, smoky flint, iodine and crushed seashells mingle on the gorgeous nose before the palate gets going with its depth charge of flavour and multi-layered texture.

The intensity is off the charts this year, so get ready for waves of racy, stony flavour tapering to a powerful, salty close.