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Drouhin's 2021 Moulin-à-Vent: frost-reduced yields, indigenous-yeast fermentation, Gamay from Beaujolais' most structured cru — precision over power.
Founded in 1880 and now stewarded by the fourth-generation Drouhin family, the house restricts its Beaujolais engagement to a single appellation — Moulin-à-Vent — the one cru where Gamay, grown on manganese-rich granite soils, produces tannin architecture and aging capacity that approaches Burgundian Pinot Noir in density.
The 2021 vintage was defined by spring frost and persistent mildew pressure, forcing strict parcel-by-parcel sorting that slashed yields and concentrated what remained into wines of uncommon freshness and precision. Moulin-à-Vent's decomposed pink granite and
manganese-oxide subsoil suppress Gamay's natural exuberance, producing darker fruit, firmer structure, and a characteristic iron-edged minerality absent in lighter Beaujolais crus.
Fermentation proceeds with indigenous yeasts in small open vats over 2–3 weeks, with pigeage and pumping-over to extract structure without overworking the fruit; élevage follows in French high-forest oak barrels at village-level new-oak proportions (15–25%), preserving the site's mineral signature rather than overlaying it.
What sets this expression apart within Drouhin's portfolio is the deliberate use of Gamay — the sole departure from the house's otherwise exclusive Pinot Noir/Chardonnay focus — treated here with the same low-intervention, terroir-transparent philosophy applied to its Côte de Nuits reds.
The 2021's reduced crop translates to taut red-fruit concentration, lifted acidity, and a structural backbone that rewards 2–5 years of cellaring.
Sommelier’s pick: Roast duck breast with cherry jus · Grilled lamb chops with herbes de Provence · Charcuterie board with jambon de Bayonne and cornichons
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