Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Cinq Terroirs"

When Arnaud Mortet took sole charge in 2006, he made a deliberate break from his father Denis's richer, more extracted house style — reducing new oak sharply and dialling back pump-overs to five or six cap-punchings per fermentation, a restraint that lets the five lieux-dits of Mes Cinq Terroirs (En Motrot, Au Vellé, Combe du Dessus, En Champs, En Derée) speak without cosmetic amplification. These parcels sit on the Côteau de Brochon, the northernmost slope of Gevrey-Chambertin, where limestone-marl subsoil and 70-year-old Pinot Noir vines — farmed without chemical fertilisers or herbicides since 1996 — produce fruit of concentrated mineral tension rather than sheer weight. In the 2020 vintage, a hot, dry summer and early harvest pushed aromatic concentration while retaining lively acidity; Arnaud responded by vinifying the entire cuvée whole-cluster (main stems individually removed before inclusion), fermenting exclusively with indigenous yeasts over an 18–20-day vatting. Aging ran 16–18 months in French oak at just 20% new barrels, the balance in one- and two-wine wood, preserving the site's character over any toasty overlay. The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered — unusual at village AOC level, where most producers fine for commercial consistency. The 2020 shows the captivating purity Arnaud has made his signature: taut red-fruit density threaded with Brochon's chalky grip, drinking well now through 2032.